Celebrating Women Mountaineers of the Past and Present

Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro on Kanchenjunga, 2017. | Photo © Alessandro D’Emilia. Courtesy Tamara Lunger Archive

Mountaineering Women: Climbing Through History is a richly illustrated collection of stories that celebrate the accomplishments of twenty women climbers spanning history and the globe. From the Amazigh (Berbers) of the Atlas Mountains in northwestern Africa to the Inca Empire high in the Andes, women have long traversed the world’s most challenging peaks. Mountaineering Women seeks to amend a narrative that often focuses on the exploits of white, male “explorers.”

The book was written by avid climber and backcountry skier Joanna Croston, currently the director of mountain culture at the Banff Mountain and Book Festival Tour. She moved to the Canadian Rockies in 1998 and has successfully climbed many of the 11,000-foot peaks in the area. Her writing has appeared in Highline Magazine, The Canadian Alpine Journal, Mountain Life and Alpinist.

Photo: Courtesy of Thames & Hudson

A foreword written by British runner Jasmin Paris sets the scene. Climbing stories are bookended by an introduction by Nandini Purandare, editor of The Himalayan Journal, and a closing essay by professional climber Ashima Shiraishi.

The compelling stories of the climbers featured in this volume are accompanied by specially commissioned ink illustrations and evocative photos memorializing time and place. “The photographs capture the mountaineers in action alongside the savage, wild beauty of the mountains they climb,” notes Croston.

Lizzie Le Blond climbing on Piz Corvatsch, July 1889 | Photo: The Lizzie Le Blond Collection. Courtesy The Martin and Osa Johnson Safari Museum, Chanute, Kansas

“The first story in the book features climber Junko Tabei, the first woman to summit Mount Everest and a heroine and mentor to many,” says Croston. Overcoming discrimination and major physical challenges, Tabei’s story culminates in galvanizing personal and physical achievement derived from her connection to the mountains. “Her story can move and encourage many women from all walks of life,” emphasizes Croston. “I wanted to draw attention to stories that highlight the feats women can accomplish through tenacity and perseverance.”

While mountaineering skill is crucial, dedication to a sport that doesn’t offer millions of dollars in prize money is another important aspect of the storytelling. “Women climbers work for a sense of personal achievement,” says Croston. Woven through climbers’ personal journeys are themes that include the fight for women’s rights, a strong connection to nature and the elements and dedication to overcoming challenges.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner climbing the North Pillar Route on K2 in 2011 | Photo: © Ralf Dujmovits, courtesy Archiv Kaltenbrunner

Alison Hargreaves climbing on the northwest ridge of Kangtega. Tom Frost is visible below her. She never touched that fixed rope. | Photo: © Mark Twight 1986