Weekend in Washington Wine Country

Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant

In the sleepy southeastern corner of Washington state, the town of Walla Walla and the wine-growing region that surrounds it feels a lot like an undiscovered Napa Valley--it’s friendly, familiar and perfectly real--and when it comes to food and wine, the area is it’s poised to become the next big thing.

Day 1: FRIDAY

After a day of travel, the best--and fastest--way to ease into your weekend is with a visit to Dunham Cellars. The winery, adjacent to the Walla Walla airport, makes its home in a rustic, remodeled World War II-era airplane hangar. Dunham quickly gained a reputation for award-winning wines with the release of its 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, and since then, owners Eric, Mike and Joanne Dunham have added a sought-after Syrah, Trutina (a Bordeaux-style blend), Three Legged Red (red table wine), and a special, limited-production white wine called “Shirley Mays,” in honor of Eric’s grandmother.

If you’re feeling hungry (or just still thirsty), head into downtown Walla Walla for a light lunch at Grapefields, a casual bistro, wine bar and wine shop--and, with shelves filled with local wines, the perfect place to fill in the gaps in your day's tasting tour. Try a slice of quiche, filled with organic eggs and seasonal local vegetables, or one of the creative pizzas, hot from a stone oven and perfect when paired with a selection from the long list of local wines by the glass.

It may come as a surprise, but Walla Walla is a bona fide art town. A great place to check out the scene is at the Walla Walla Foundry Gallery. This commercial gallery exhibits artists associated with the Walla Walla Foundry, a prominent casting facility that specializes in contemporary fine art in bronze, silver and aluminum--and is the birthplace of works by renowned artists such as Robert Arneson, Terry Allen, Deborah Butterfield, Jim Dine, and Tom Otterness. Inside the gallery, you’ll find art of all mediums and materials; outside, there’s a can’t-miss sculpture garden.

As easy as it is to lose track of time here, you’ll want to keep an eye on your watch, lest you miss check-in time (3 p.m. to 6 p.m.) at the Inn at Abeja, your home for the night. Located just a few miles outside of town on a century-old farmstead in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, this carefully restored inn is picture-perfect--imagine crisp white paint, wide verandas, and hammocks under great shade trees, all surrounded by acres of perennial gardens, green lawns and vineyards. Guest rooms are in a collection of original outbuildings, including an old carriage house, summer kitchen and even an old chicken coop. Not to worry, though: each building has been lovingly restored with plenty of luxe touches, from granite-tiled bathrooms with claw-foot tubs to modern kitchens, vaulted ceilings, fireplaces and even satellite televisions.

An on-site winery makes the Iinn a perfect place to start your afternoon wine tour. So, after a glass of Cabernet and a little exploring, hop in the car, as you’ll be heading west of town to Woodward Canyon. Started in 1981 by Rick Small and his wife, Darcey Fugman-Small, this winery is home to small-production Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots and barrel-fermented Chardonnays--and a charming tasting room located in a restored 1870s farmhouse.

Before heading back to town, stop at L’Ecole No. 41. Chances are, you’ll recall seeing this winery’s colorful label--a watercolor rendition of the 1915 schoolhouse turned winery--in your local wine shop. L’Ecole’s tasting room occupies one of two classrooms, and is filled with old schoolhouse character, including original chalkboards, light fixtures, fir floors and moldings, as well as a 100-year-old Baker Boyer Bank check stand, antique bank clock and Falkenberg stained-glass windows. Step up to the slate-covered bar and taste through the especially delicious Merlot, Cabernet, Syrah and Semillon.

As evening approaches, head back into town for an après-dinner snack at 26 Brix, where rustic brick walls and an open kitchen create a warm and inviting setting for Chef Mike Davis’ menus that combine local, still-warm-from-the-earth produce with classic French techniques. Order anything from the perfect-for-sharing tapas menu, from steamed Manila clams in a perfect-for-dipping sauce of Merguez sausage, marrow beans and cilantro; to beef satays with a Szechuan dipping sauce and red cabbage and fennel slaw. If you still haven’t had your fill of Davis’ cooking, switch to the dinner menu, where you’ll find plenty of Washington shellfish, local meats and the most tempting list of side dishes you’ve ever seen. Try the Muscovy duck confit, paired perfectly with a Brussels sprout-and-parsnip purée and apple-juniper glacée; or the classic French-style venison in a red-wine reduction.

If a change of scenery is in order, head to dinner at Whitehouse-Crawford Restaurant. Housed in a restored woodworking mill, this stylish spot is often credited with bringing the first touch of urban sophistication to the Walla Walla dining scene. The inventive menu changes with the season, but you’ll always find delicious regional fish and shellfish; tender, ultra-flavorful cuts of natural, grass-fed beef—try the tenderloin served with a Walla Walla red-wine reduction, mushrooms sautéed in fois gras and frites—and an excellent wine list with lots of local and European selections.

Day 2: SATURDAY

The best way to get your day off to a slow start is with breakfast in bed at the Inn at Abeja. After eating your fill of local produce, baked goods and fresh-squeezed orange juice, pack up, check out and make your way to Glen Fiona, a winery known for its Rhone-style Syrahs. If Merlot is what you crave, make time for a stop at Northstar Winery, where you can tour the state-of-the-art facilities, taste some award-winning Washington Merlots, (including some winery-only releases), and take in panoramic views of the Blue Mountains.

For lunch, stop at CreekTown Café and grab a table outside beneath the vine-covered patio. The cuisine here is eclectic and some of the freshest in town, made from scratch every day with ingredients sourced from local farms and purveyors. Try the fish and chips—fresh halibut that’s beer-battered, deep fried and served with orange tartar sauce—the Northwest Club or a juicy burger made with local Thundering Hooves beef. On your way out, at least take a peek at the dessert case filled with homemade cream pies, fruit crisps and other just-like-mom-made-them treats. Just be sure to save some room, because this afternoon you’ll be tasting some of the best cheeses around at Monteillet Fromagerie. Farmstead cheesemakers in the truest sense, Pierre-Louis and Joan Monteillet rise at 4 a.m. to milk their flock of 35 goats and 35 sheep. The rest of the day is spent producing their hand-made cheeses. There’s a Larzac (goat) and Mejean (sheep), two soft-ripened cheeses; a remarkable rosy Mejean Syrah that’s marinated in Syrah from Dunham Cellars’ Lewis Vineyard; two hard, aged cheeses, a Sauveterre (sheep) and Causse Noir (goat and sheep); and, in the fall, the smoky-hued Le Roi, an aged pure goat cheese that’s dusted with grape leaf ash from Leon, France, and crowned with gold dust. On weekend afternoons, you can tour the fromagerie, visit the goats and, best of all, step up to the small, beautiful counter for a cheese- and- wine tasting. You’ll want to bring the delicious Fcheeses home, but if you didn’t pack a cooler, you can always ask the Monteillets to ship some to you.

Back in the car, work your way west to the Red Mountain region, Washington’s hippest, hottest and smallest viticultural appellation and one of the prime growing regions in the state. Stop at Hedges Family Estate for European-style wines and the great photo opportunities you’ll find at the beautiful chateau: a tasting room with 14-foot ceilings, a large stone fireplace and a beautiful wood bar; and a courtyard garden with stunning views of the Red Mountain region and the Yakima Valley. Next, pay a visit to Kiona Vineyards & Winery. Unlike the many start-up wineries that dot the region, Kiona has been growing grapes here since 1975, making them it a true pioneers of the Red Mountain area. Taste through the entire selection of wines, from Zinfandel to late-harvest Riesling, and be sure not to miss the fruit-forward but not-over-the-top Syrah. The perfect place for a final stop is Bookwalter Winery, another Red Mountain original, where you can sit down and taste wines paired with local artisan cheeses and charcuterie. At 6 p.m. there’s live jazz and blues, too, so order some dessert--the decadent chocolate sampler is a must--sit back and relax. 

There are plenty of hotels in the area, but for a truly memorable stay, you’ll want to make the (approximately. two-hour) journey to the Cave B Inn at SageCliffe, perched 900 feet above the Columbia River, near the town of Quincy. As is the case with many of the best things in life, the beautifully appointed Cliffehouse or Cavern room you’ll sleep in tonight will be well worth the effort. Tomorrow there will be plenty of time for exploring, but tonight, check in, grab a bite to eat if you wish, and, if it’s early enough, head out to your balcony and take in the spectacular sunset over the Columbia River before heading off to bed. 

Day 3: SUNDAY

Begin your day with a beautiful breakfast buffet at Tendrils, a sophisticated yet casual bistro located inside the main lodge at Cave B Inn. As you look out at views of vineyards, sage-covered cliffs and the Columbia River canyon, you’ll begin to get your bearings. Follow breakfast with a bit of fresh air on a two-mile guided morning meditation walk to scenic Chimpanzee Point. If you’re ready for more, stop by the front desk and pick up a map to the self-guided tour of the Cave B vineyards and estate winery. After strolling through the vines, end your tour in the tasting room, where you can put up your feet with a glass of Cave B’s prized Bordeaux blend, “Cuvée du Soleil,” or, for something more refreshing, a bubbly glass of Blanc de Blanc.

Now it’s decision time: Iif your aim is to cover lots of ground, rent a sturdy mountain bike and traverse the 700-acre estate, or head out to the magnificent Columbia River. If you plan to be gone for more than a few hours, bring along a box lunch for a picture-perfect picnic. Or, if you’d rather, take advantage of SageCliffe’s miles of hiking trails that lead to hidden waterfalls, seasonal ponds, and all the way to the Columbia River. If you’re looking for something more unusualunique, rent a handheld GPS unit and seek out SageCliffe’s scenic vantage points and geographical finds on a geo-caching hunt.

After so much activity, some relaxation is sure to be in order. The Spa at SageCliffe offers a full menu of services, from massages to after-sun treatments. For the ultimate indulgence, book a tandem (that’s four hands) massage, then cozy up in a warm cocoon with the Relax Aroma Wrap.

After a long shower and, perhaps, a nap, it will be time to think about heading to Tendrils for dinner. Like the Cave B Inn, Tendrils restaurant takes great pains to remain true to the flavors of the Northwest. James Beard Foundation award-winning Chef Fernando Divina crafts his menus according to the season, using ingredients grown on site at SageCliffe’s orchards, vineyards and chef’s garden, as well as those sourced from local family farms and other local, organic and ecologically sound sources. The multi-course tasting menu is the best way to experience Chef Divina’s creativity and the flavors of the region--think razor clams, Hama Hama oysters, Armandino Batali’s salumi, wild king salmon, Columbia quail and Thundering Hooves beef. Paired with wines grown, produced and bottled right on the property, it’s the perfect end to a delicious tour of what very well may be the country’s next great wine destination.