Summer Sipping

Summertime. Everything seems to get lighter. Our clothes, our weight (or at least we try), even our food. And so should our wine. Sure, it's still great to open that high-octane California Cabernet when you're throwing a couple of New Yorks on the grill, but on those warm days when only something light and refreshing will do, consider the following options:

Lucien Crochet Sancerre Croix du Roy 2004, about $26 per bottle
Sauvignon Blanc is summer and this 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Sancerre region of the Loire Valley in France. Fresh and clean with aromas of zesty gooseberry, grass and minerals, this is easy on the palate and the perfect wine to drink with cold shellfish, lighter seafood or goat cheese (really, try it). Or just have a glass while you're deciding what to make for dinner.

Abbazia di Novacella Kerner Alto Adige 2004, about $22 per bottle
If you like Riesling -- the dryer kind -- you'll love Kerner. This tastes like key-lime pie with a little peach and honeysuckle thrown in. Founded in 1142, Abbazia di Novacella is one of the oldest wineries in the world; drinking this perfumed and pure Kerner is like drinking history, and it's something wonderfully esoteric to serve your more finicky friends. Try it with prosciutto crudo and other cured meats.

Pieropan Soave Classico 2004, about $20 per bottle
From grapes grown on hillside vineyards of the Soave Classico appellation in the Veneto region of Italy just outside Verona, this blend of 90 percent Garganega and 10 percent Trebbiano di Soave has a delicate nose reminiscent of almond blossoms and white fruits. It's fresh and crisp with a gentle bitter almond note to the finish. Make a batch of seafood gazpacho and enjoy.

Leth Gruner Veltliner Steinagrund 2004, about $17 per bottle
This grape, pronounced -- Grew-ner Velt-len-er -- has brought Austria back into the wine world and is a darling of sommeliers. With aromas of lemony grapefruit, and hints of pepper, herbs and lemon grass, this Gruner is crisp and minerally. Try it with pan-Asian cuisine.

d'Arenberg The Hermit Crab Marsanne Viognier 2004, about $16 per bottle
This enticing blend of Marsanne and Viognier -- actually 70 percent Viognier -- from the McLaren Vale in South Australia is all honeysuckle, white peach and tropical fruit with a fresh, dry finish. There's no oak here to get in the way of this perfect cocktail wine

Rose Renaissance
Rose is back. And no, not the sweet, pink and fruity type. What we're talking about is the dry, aromatic, wonderfully versatile style of rose. Think of summer patios in the south of France and you've got the idea. Try the following with everything from salads of all kinds to antipasto to picnic fare, or just when relaxing on the porch. Don't serve it too cold, though, or you'll miss all of the flavor.

Robert Sinskey Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2005, about $18 per bottle
Robert Sinskey Vineyards is one of the largest organic vineyard operations in Napa Valley. The Vin Gris -- not really a "grey wine" -- has a brilliant light rose-copper hue and aromas and flavors of fresh strawberry, nectarines and orange blossoms. The lively acidity makes it easy to have another glass or two.

El Coto de Rioja Rosado 2005, about $12 per bottle
This Spanish rose from the Rioja region is a blend of 50 percent Tempranillo and 50 percent Garnacha, Spain's name for the Grenache grape. Some intensely fruity aromas of strawberry and cherry are followed by spice and citrus notes in this serious, full-flavored rose that's smooth, fresh, fruity and dry all at once. And it's a great value.

Chateau Val Joanis Cotes du Luberon Rose 2005, about $12 per bottle
From the Rhone Valley in France, this wine is a blend of Syrah and Grenache. With a salmon pink color and aromas of raspberry and red currant, this is lively and fresh with a slightly spicy side to the wild berry flavors.