Photo courtesy The Rusty Parrot Lodge and Spa
Travel
Insider’s Guide to Jackson, Wyoming
Western hospitality and small-town charm combine with sophisticated luxuries in this enclave nestled among the pristine Teton Mountains


Four Seasons Resort, Jackson Hole


RockResorts Spa at Snake River Lodge
Autumn in Jackson is a feast for the eyes. The surrounding Teton Mountain peaks and valleys shimmering in the alpenglow are testament to that. Add the feel of the Indian summer breeze on your sun-kissed face, the smell of the pines on an early morning hike, and the mouth-watering tastes of local high-country cuisine, and it’s possible to go into sensory overload.

But beyond those attributes, Jackson is a perfect retreat for anyone looking for modern mountain sensibilities, from stylish boutiques and art galleries to world-class hotels and spas. From the little town of Jackson with its Wild West roots, to the resort-like atmosphere of Teton Village, just up the road at the base of the ski mountain, Jackson will make you feel at home—--no matter what the season.

STAY

Four Seasons Resort, Jackson Hole  Located at the base of the ski mountain at Teton Village, the Four Seasons delivers on its reputation for fine service, amenities and accommodations that blend sophistication and rusticity in every detail. A 24-hour concierge will be at your beck and call. Dining and spa options are first-rate. (307) 732-5000, fourseasons.com/jacksonhole.

Amangani  If pure luxury is what you’re looking for, Amangani, perched atop the East Gros Ventre Butte outside of town, is your nirvana. Settle into one of 40 suites, dine at the Grill, swim in the 30-meter cliffside pool, or just stand and stare at the spectacular snow-capped mountain panoramas. Book an overnight packhorse trip and spend the day fly-fishing, axe throwing and panning for gold, and the night in a historic trapper's cabin. (307) 734-7333, amangani.com.

The Rusty Parrot  This classic Western lodge is an elegant little oasis just a short stroll from the restaurants and shops on Jackson’s Town Square. Cozy guest rooms offer luxuries large and small, from wood-burning fireplaces to down comforters and teddy bears. Book a treatment at the Body Sage spa, start your day with a hearty breakfast (included in the nightly rate) at the Wild Sage restaurant, and end it with dinner there, too. (307) 733-2000, rustyparrot.com.

Snake River Lodge & Spa  Filled with hand-crafted leather furniture and cozy stone fireplaces, this warm and inviting full-service lodge in Teton Village will make you want to settle in for a while. Once you do, you’ll be spoiled by the RockResorts spa and dining at Gamefish restaurant. For an even longer stay, check out the Residence Suites. (307) 732-6000, snakeriverlodge.com.

The Wort Hotel  Settle into a spacious lodgepole-pine-furnished room at this historic landmark, just off Town Square and you’ll get a taste of Jackson in an earlier day (albeit with a sense of comfort homesteader Charles J. Wort had never knewknown). The Silver Dollar Bar is one of town’s most famous watering holes. (307) -733-2190, worthotel.com.

Spring Creek Ranch  You’ll hardly be roughing it at this luxury resort, where creature comforts include fireplaces and amenities include tennis, horseback riding and a swimming pool. Some of the best views of the valley and Teton Range can be had from a table at the Granary Restaurant. Spa tables at the Wilderness Adventure Spa are tops for pampering. (307) 733-8833, springcreekranch.com.

EAT

Rendezvous Bistro  Bistro tables are perfect for indulging in veal marsala, duck confit, steak frites, or daily blackboard specials. Cozy up for cocktails and oyster shooters at the snazzy white onyx bar. October-June: Dinner Mon.- Sat.; July-September: Dinner nightly. Dinner entrées from $15. Casual attire.
VITALS: Located next to Albertson’s; 380 South Broadway, (307) 739-1100, rendezvousbistro.net.

Snake River Grill  Upper-crust cuisine—including braised antelope shanks, buffalo short ribs and grilled elk chops—with Wild West flair is presented in a modern mountain setting. A Wine Spectator Award of Excellence list rounds things out. Dinner nightly. Dinner entrées from $18. Western chic attire.
VITALS: Located upstairs on the Town Square; 84 East Broadway, (307) 733-0557, snakerivergrill.com.

Old Yellowstone Garage  Long revered for wood-fired pizzas (especially on Sunday nights, when pies are passed on peals and you select by the slice), lamb shanks braised in terracotta pots, and Piedmont wines from a Wine Spectator award-winning list. Dinner Tues.-Sat.; wood-fired pizza nightly. Dinner entrées from $13. Chic casual attire.
VITALS: Located near the corner of Center and Gill; 175 Center St., (307) 734-6161, oyg.com.

Koshu Wine Bar  Big flavors reign in dishes like shrimp pad Thai and five- spice Peking duck. Sip sake, wine, and “stickies” by the glass, or pick from more than 900 bottles in the adjoining wine shop. Dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Dinner entrées from $12. Casual attire.
VITALS: Located on the corner of Broadway and Millward inside the Jackson Hole Wine Company; 200 West Broadway, (307) 733-5283, jhwine.com.

Q Roadhouse Barbeque  Follow your nose to this new hotspot for barbeque galore, plus certified Angus beef burgers, seasonal seafood and 50 wines under $50. Dinner nightly. Dinner entrées from $13.95. Casual attire.
VITALS: Located next to Calico on Teton Village Road, 2550 Teton Village Rd., (307) 739-0700.

Mizu Sushi  For a fix of fresh fish, nigiri, tiraditto, and sashimi, specialty rolls like the “super crunchy” (tempura shrimp, cucumber and potato flakes), plus dishes like creamy rock shrimp and miso black cod. Dinner nightly. Dinner entrées from $12. Casual attire.
VITALS: Located on along the Village Road; 3465 North Pines Way, (307) 734-5205.

SHOP

Round On Jackson’s Town Square (and off on the little side-streets beyond), you can round up everything from cowboy couture to antler chandeliers, Old West collectibles to contemporary jewelry and keepsakes.

For art lovers, strolling the galleries (the Jackson Hole Gallery Association lists 30 members) is a joy, and you never know what you may find. For starters, visit Jackson Street Gallery (307-734-0649) for high-end contemporary works, Legacy Gallery (307-733-2353) for original oils and bronzes, Rawson Gallery (307-733-7306) for watercolors and prints, and West Lives On Gallery (307-734-2888, westliveson.com) for fine Western heritage artworks. On September 7, the Palates and Palettes Gallery Walk kicks off the famed Fall Arts Festival (jacksonholechamber.com).

PLAY

Get out there. Hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking options are endless, on National Forest mountain, wilderness and riverside trails. Golfers can get in the swing at Jackson Hole Golf & Tennis Club (866-915-4482, jhgtc.com) or Teton Pines Golf Club (307-733-1005, tetonpines.com). Adventure seekers will find challenges climbing local peaks, or flying over them in a paraglider. The Snake River beckons with whitewater thrills, or gentler float trips with experienced guides, as well as fly-fishing expeditions on shore or by boat. Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks make for great day trips (don’t forget your camera).

Played out? It’s time for a little pampering at one of Jackson’s luscious spas. Indulge in an Alpine Berry Body Ritual at The Spa at Four Seasons Resort (307-732-5000, fourseasons.com/jacksonhole/spa), a Mountain Sage Salt Glow body treatment at the Wilderness Adventure Spa at Spring Creek Ranch (307-733-8833, springcreekranch.com/spa), an Eh-Wah-Kee mud wrap at the The Body Sage Day Spa in the Rusty Parrot Lodge (307-733-4455, bodysage.com), or an Indian Head Massage with Shirodhara at the RockResorts Spa at Snake River Lodge (307-732-6000, snakeriverlodge.com). Ahh …

DON’T MISS

September 6-16, the 23rd Annual Jackson Hole Fall Arts Festival (jacksonholechamber.com) celebrates art in the Tetons. World-class installments will include the works of local and nationally acclaimed artists, plus there’s live music, cowboy poetry and more. This year’s highlights also include the “Taste of the Tetons,” the 12th annual QuickDraw Art Sale and Auction, and the 15th annual Western Design Conference! Jackson Hole.

TOP 10 PICKS

1. Post-hike or bike ride (or even just to while away the afternoon), the Mangy Moose is the place for a local microbrew and, if you dare, a Rocky Mountain Ooyster fix. (307) 733-4913.

2. Peruse the nation’s premier public collection of fine art devoted to wildlife at the The National Museum of Wildlife Art, which is perched on a butte overlooking the National Elk Refuge just outside of town. (307) 733-5771.

3. Ride the Bridger Gondola 2,800 feet up the mountain from Teton Village for big Teton views and lunch at Couloir, a new hotspot with fine Western-style fare. Dinner, too, Thursday through Sunday. (307) 739-2675.

4. Pack your tent and camping gear and head out for a couple of days in the great outdoors and one of Jackson’s local campgrounds, or journey into Grand Teton National Park (campsites generally fill by noon, so get an early start).

5. Claim a leather saddle barstool at the legendary Million Dollar Cowboy Bar (the bartop is studded with 592 silver dollars) and drink a toast to the neon cowboy. (307) 733-2207.

6. Stop by the Jackson Center for the Arts, a contemporary arts center campus in downtown Jackson, for everything from yoga and ceramics classes to hootenannies and art shows. (307) 734-8956.

7. Watch for smokin’ guns at the world’s longest-running Shoot Out, which takes place six nights a week on the Town Square.

8. Drive up to Dornan’s in nearby Moose (look for the giant tipis), where chuckwagon dinners are the draw. Stop in the Wine Shoppe first and choose from a notable selection of international wine and beer. (307) 733-2415.

9. Start your day at the Bunnery, the locals’ favorite place for breakfast, lunch, or a slice of famous Very Berry pie. Load up on muffins, scones and buttermilk-pecan coffee cake before heading out for a day of adventure. (307) 734-0075.

10. Keep an eye out for moose.

MARKET PROFILE

With a population of just over 8,600 people (there are actually more full-time elk), spectacular scenery and endless recreational options, Jackson’s lifestyle is hard to beat. It’s also what has caused the median home price to jump to $1 million. That said, real estate options abound, from in-town, single-family homes and condos to sprawling estates and ranches in communities like Moose and Gros Ventre North. A handful of new and established luxury developments continue to cater to the affluent second-home market.

Although the rest of the country is feeling a dramatic cooling, real estate in the town of Jackson and Jackson Hole remains hot. The combination of limited inventory (97 percent of Teton County is public domain) and high demand from retiring baby boomers continues to push home and land prices sky high.

According to David E. Viehman, owner and associate broker of Jackson Hole Real Estate and Appraisal, “2006 will be remembered by local realtors as one of the strongest seller’s markets in the history of Jackson Hole.” His annual Jackson Hole Report (jacksonholereport.com) shows the median sale price up 17 percent from 2005 and a record-breaking demand for homes over $1 million.

Teton Village, the home of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, has seen the addition of ski-in/ski-out luxury condominium hotels (such as the Jackson Hole Four Seasons) that offer both full and fractional ownership and help keep prices high. Low inventory and high demand are also keeping the price of single-family homes up, with hard-to-find vacant lots priced around $800,000 and existing homes ranging from $1.2 million to as much as $4.5 million.

SIDETRIP: CODY, WYOMING

Cody, Wyoming, was founded by “Buffalo Bill” Cody in 1896, and you can still get a taste of the American West as it was in his day. That said, the little town 52 miles east of the east entrance to Yellowstone National Park mixes in its share of contemporary attractions, from shops to galleries to dining, all served up with real mountain hospitality.

Stay: Go for the real Wild West deal at one of many nearby guest ranches, such as the historic Shoshone Lodge & Guest Ranch (307-587-4044, shoshonelodge.com), where authentic log cabins, old-fashioned home cooking and horseback-riding are all part of the package. For a stay in a historic home with friendly innkeepers, contact the Cody Country Bed & Breakfast Association (codybedandbreakfast.com).

Eat:  Finding three square meals—and then some—a day is a matter of picking your place. Try the Willow Fence Tea Room (307-587-0888) for teas from around the world and fresh scones and cinnamon rolls;, Maxwell’s Restaurant (307-527-7749) for family-friendly fare, including gourmet pizzas;, and roadhouse-style Cassie’s Supper Club for great steaks and the Buffalo Bar (307-527-5500, cassies.com).

Play:  When you’re not exploring Yellowstone, Cody’s growing artist community, a collection of interesting shops, galleries and the <B>Buffalo Bill Historical Center<P> (307-587-4771, bbhc.org) will keep you busy.

The fourth week of September, the Rendezvous Royale (888-598-8119, rendezvousroyale.org) Western arts celebration kicks in with art shows, an auction, a high-style fashion show, the Patrons Ball and more.

FYI

Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, (307) 733-3316, jacksonholechamber.com.
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, (307) 733-2292, jacksonhole.com.
Cody, Wyoming, (307) 587-2777, codychamber.org.