Travel
Insider's Guide to Alberta, Canada
With the rugged Rocky Mountains for a backbone, it’s no surprise that Alberta is home to world-class adventure—with amenities to match.

Surrounded by the Canadian Rockies, the prairies of Saskatchewan, the state of Montana and the Northwest Territories, the province of Alberta offers many different landscapes, each filled with the opportunity for spectacular high-country adventures. And while there’s no way to see and do it all in one trip, our favorite route—through Banff and Jasper National Parks—comes pretty close.

HIKE

Cave and Basin Marsh
Located at the end of Cave Avenue in Banff, this National Historic Site offers an easy hike along a well-marked boardwalk. Keep an eye out for numerous species of birds and the tropical fish that were first introduced to the marsh’s hot springs-warmed waters in 1924. Most hikers turn back at the picnic area, but if you have time, take the 1.3-mile loop that passes waterfalls and winds through a canyon.

Elk Island National Park
Elk are not the only animals roaming this park’s 11 hiking trails. You may also catch a glimpse of heron, bison and deer. The park can also be used for canoeing, golfing, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and camping at one of 80 campsites.

Grassi Lakes
The 1.2-mile long Grassi Lakes trail, which begins on the left side of Spray Lakes Road in Canmore, crosses Canmore Creek before leading hikers to two sparkling lakes. Along the way, stop to read the interpretive signs that tell stories of the path’s pioneer namesake, Lawrence Grassi. Once you pass the lakes, be on the lookout for native rock art and climbers.

Jasper National Park
This pristine park offers more than 600 miles of hiking trails through gorgeous backcountry wilderness. Expert hikers can test their endurance (and often, glacier-traversing skills) on day-long or overnight hikes at Miette Hot Springs, Columbia Icefields, Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls. For those more comfortable going with a guide, there are countless programs available for hikers of all levels (try Overlander Trekking & Tours for heli-hiking, ice-cave tours and other backcountry adventures. overlandertrekking.com). Reservations are required for backcountry camping. For more information, visit canadatrails.ca.

Kootenay Plains
This challenging four-mile hike begins at the campgrounds east of David Thompson Highway (Hwy. 11) and winds upward to Thompson Creek Falls in the Kootenay Plains Ecological Area. You can turn back here or push on to the Stoney and Ktunaxa First Nations ceremonial grounds, 12 miles from the trailhead, or even further to Siffleur Falls Trail, 17 miles from home base, to view three waterfalls from a suspension bridge over the North Saskatchewan River.

Path of the Glacier Trail
This aptly-named hike follows a path left by the Angel Glacier. The short (one-mile) and easy trail begins just south of Jasper along Hwy. 93A and west along Cavell Road at the Mt. Edith Cavell parking lot and passes by an iceberg-filled lake.

Talbot Lake
The place for serious wildlife viewing, the Talbot Lake wetland (located 19 miles east of Jasper along Hwy. 16) is home to yellow-headed blackbirds that meow to one another and northern pike, predatory fish that look like submarines and can grow to more than three feet long.

Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park
Head 20 miles east and six miles south of southern Alberta’s Milk River on Secondary Road 501 to find trails that wind past petroglyphs (ancient native carvings) and paintings on sandstone, prairie grasslands, the Milk River, wildlife and unusual rock spires called hoodoos. Take a guided tour and you’ll hear the story of the North West Mountain Police and whisky traders from the 1800s. (403) 647-2364
 

EAT

BANFF
Saltlik A warm and rustic timber-frame dining room sets the stage for classic steakhouse fare, including Canadian beef, wild Coho salmon, and chili-rubbed BBQ barbecue ribs. Come early or stay late to enjoy live blues and jazz, or just relax on the flower-lined sidewalk patio. Lunch and dinner daily. Casual attire.
Vitals: 221 Bear St., Banff, AB, 403-762-2467, saltliksteakhouse.com

The Bison Mountain Bistro A new hotspot for Rocky Mountain comfort food made with regional in-season ingredients. For dinner, you can’t go wrong with truffled fondue frites, followed by the unforgettable thyme-and-sea-salt roasted chicken. Dinner nightly, lunch Mon.-Fri., weekend brunch. Casual attire.
Vitals: Located in the Bison Court,. 211 Bear St., Banff, AB, 403-762-5550, thebison.ca

Wild Flour Bakery Start your day with croissants, scones, cinnamon rolls and sweet and savory breakfast paninis, then stop back later for delicious quiches, sandwiches and gelato. Breakfast and lunch daily. Casual attire.
Vitals: 211 Bear St., Banff, AB, 403-760-5074

LAKE LOUISE

The Post Hotel Tucked away in an alpine chalet, the Post’s intimate restaurant offers some of the province’s finest food and wine--think Alberta lamb with lentils and prunes or Berill duck glazed with a blackberry vinegar and maple syrup sauce--and the personal, attentive service you’d expect from a Relais and Chateaux property. Dinner nightly. Casual elegant attire.
Vitals: Located in the Post Hotel,. 200 Pipestone Rd., Lake Louise, AB, 800-661-1586, posthotel.com

JASPER

Evil Dave’s Grill A loyal following flocks to this fun bistro for chef/owner David George Husereau’s innovative appetizers, Big Salads and Big Plates, like the Kkiller Ccobb Ssalad, herb-crusted salmon sandwich, home-style meatloaf and bourbon pecan pie. Lunch and dinner daily. Casual attire.
Vitals: 622 Patricia St., Jasper, AB, 780-852-3323

Bear’s Paw Bakery Feast on classic European-style pastries and tortes, hand-shaped artisan breads, famous trail cookies (try the ginger variety), raspberry-white-chocolate scones, hearty Morning Glory muffins, cinnamon buns, Granny Smith apple pie and carrot cake--all perfect with a mug of mountain-roasted
coffee or chocolate chai. Open daily. Casual attire.
Vitals: Located at the corner of Cedar and Connaught,. 4 Cedar Ave., Jasper, AB, 780-852-3233

The Edith Cavell Stunning views of Lac Beauvert and Mt. Edith Cavell are the backdrop to Chef Michael Mandato’s seasonal menu of international cuisine. Favorites include truffle fois gras, boar bacon-wrapped bison tournedos and pepper-juniper crusted venison chops. Dinner nightly. Elegant attire.
Vitals: Located in the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, 1 Old Lodge Rd., Jasper, AB, 780-852-6052, fairmont.com/jasper
SHOP

The Niche Clothing & Trading Co. A breath of fresh air in a town filled with rugged outdoor gear, this eclectic and upscale boutique lovingly displays stylish sweaters, skirts, jumpers, and jackets, along with a selection of jewelry, home accessories and furniture. 400 Connaught Dr., Suite 1, Jasper, AB, 780-852-7234, theniche-jasper.com

Three Wild Women Find fun fashions, accessories, and giftware that’s truly unique--we love the funky painted toasters--in this colorful boutique. 211 Bear St., Ste. 107, Banff, AB, 403-762-3332

Rocky Mountain Soap Co. Find the soaps, body butters and balms you need to counter the effects of Alberta’s high-altitude climate. Browse the bars of vegetable soaps--we love the Avocado Facial Bar--made the old-fashioned way and filled with herbs, flowers and essential oils. 204 Banff Ave., Banff, AB, 403-762-5999, rockymountainsoap.com
 

The Bison General Store Homemade delicacies line the shelves of this tiny shop, from house-made soups and charcuterie to preserves and a delicious grainy mustard. Before you shop, order a sandwich to go--we love the Valbella maple pepper ham and brie with pea shoots is delicious. 211 Bear St., Banff, AB, 403-762-5550, thebison.ca

REAL ESTATE
Mountain scenery, fresh air and friendly locals make places like Banff, Jasper and Lake Louise enticing to visitors hoping to find a more permanent getaway. Unfortunately, since these destinations are located within national parks, buying a vacation home here just isn’t possible; only those who work or own businesses within the towns are allowed to live there. What’s more, all land is leased from the National Park; in Jasper, the park hasn’t released land parcels for residential use since 1982. The park has also imposed population caps; Banff’s current cap is 8,000, with a permanent cap of 10,000. So, although some properties do occasionally come up for sale—with an average single-family home price of $450,000 to $600,000 and condominium price of $200,000—those who hope to live in this area typically buy in nearby communities that aren’t situated within park land. And while real estate is certainly easier to acquire in these outlying areas, it is becoming more expensive, thanks to an ever-increasing demand.

FYI
Travel Alberta, Canada, 800-252-3782, travelalberta.com
Banff/Lake Louise Tourism, 403-762-8421, banfflakelouise.com
Jasper Tourism, discoverjasper.com
National Parks of Canada, pc.gc.ca